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Showing posts with label Sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewing. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Blue Prints For Sewing A Frame Pencil Skirt

Fabric: African Wax Print from Liberia - A friend brought it back from his travels
Pattern: Blue Prints For Sewing A Frame Skirt - Version 1 (pencil skirt)

When I first saw this pattern I fell in love with the idea of color-blocking and different arrangements of stripes and pattern pieces to make a really unique skirt.  I've had the fabric for about 6 months if not closer to a year and hadn't decided what to make with it because it's such a bold print. Usually I'm not a print person at all. I knew being able to incorporate a solid would help tone this down a little bit and add some fun to my wardrobe. I used some black linen I had leftover from my Tessuti Alice Top for the side skirt front pieces that actually form pockets with the lower side front pieces. I didn't have enough linen left to incorporate any contrasting on the back side pieces of the skirt but I like the solid look on the back.


As far as sewing goes this was pretty straightforward to make. Nothing too challenging or technically involved. I cut a size B for the waist and graded out to an F I believe through the hips. From the bum up to the waist the skirt fits great. I feel like it's a little loose/not as much pencil shape below the bum and down to the knees due to it being graded to an F. I have a wide hips and a round derriere but my legs aren't that big. I think next time I'll grade back down to a C/D by the hem. I did take it in a few inches at the bottom but think it can still stand to be taken down a few inches more. Ignore the chalk in the picture. I didn't wash it post making and marking before I decided to wear it. Woops. Another woops happened when I was ironing my waistband after attaching. I guess I had my iron turned up to high because it burned right through the fabric exposing the interfacing inside (see the bottom left picture?). I didn't want to cut another waistband so I did some 'visible mending' with some orangeish thread I have. I kind of like it and think it adds some fun detailing. I think this might've been my first time sewing a lapped zipper and it was pretty straightforward and lines up nicely.

 You can see what I was talking about in the middle picture, the skirt doesn't curve back in below my bum like a traditional pencil skirt should. I think I might leave it as is because I'm lazy and I don't want to unpick the side seams to take it back in. It still fits nicely and has a nice shape from the front. Just like my last post this skirt can be worn in the summer or spring and in the winter or fall with tights and layers. I was looking through some of my old blog posts and man the pictures and quality of the pictures is just horrible. I feel like i'm able to take better pictures now that I have my dress form to hang my clothes on while I photograph them. It really makes for a world of difference and I want to be able to share all of those small details with you. Thanks again mom for the awesome gift it's very well loved. 

Sleeveless Granville Button Up in Lizzy House Natural History Fabric

Fabric: Lizzy House Natural History Fabric 
Pattern: Sewaholic Granville Button Up 
Previously Blogged: Navy Blue Eyelet Strip Granville Button Up 

The next couple of blog posts I'll be sharing are all clothes that would normally be considered 'out of season'. I've been sewing spring/summer clothes for two reasons: 1) going to Mexico for Christmas vacation in 9 days! and I wanted to make some new things to wear down there and 2) I didn't make half of the things I wanted to when it was the spring/summer season. I feel like sewing out of season works best for me. I usually find myself wanting to make a million things and getting to about three of them and then the season is over before I wear anything. This way I'll have all of these new spring and summer clothes ready to go right on time. I plan on carrying this through and making fall and winter clothes during the spring and summer. I'm sure there will be new pattern releases that tempt me and I may jump ship but for the most part I think it's just easier and less stressful for me. 

 
This is my second time making a Granville Button Up. The link for my first version is up above. Previously I had made a size 8 that was graded down to a 6 in the waist and back to an 8 for the hips but I didn't like the hip wings I got. I slimmed this version down and kept it at a 6 through the hips and it fits perfectly. I also decided to make it sleeveless mainly so that it'd be nice for the summer but it's also perfect for layering under sweaters and not having to worry about the bulkiness of sleeves. The fabric has a slight stretch to it which I really like and is pretty comfortable over all. I wish I had paid a little more attention to the butterflies when I was cutting. I think having them directly centered over the button band would've been nice. Speaking of button holes - still one of my least favorite sewing things. My machine just does a horrible job of them, could be user error, and I'm always tempted to do them by hand but I chicken out. 

 I'm really pleased with myself technically speaking. I took my time with this and took extra care making sure the insides were nice and neat. I flat-felled all of the seams so I wouldn't have any loose bits. I also feel like this is one of my nicest collars - it turned out very crisp.


Every time i wear this shirt or see it peeking out from my closet it makes me smile. I love the color, it's my favorite and it matches my mint green Chucks. Pretty fun shirt overall and I know I will wear it a ton!

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Pendleton Wool Tote Bag


Fabric: Pendleton Wool & Scissor print cotton - Fancy Tiger Crafts (I can't find the name/line of the
             lining fabric on their website)
 Notions: Fancy Tiger Crafts Leather Bag Handles + Closure Kit (26")

This past weekend I went down to the Fancy Tiger Crafts shop to take their Pendleton Wool Tote Class which they offer now and again. Not to boost my own ego but I definitely could have skipped the class; however, it was a joy to browse all of their fabric and nicknacks they have in the shop. It was gorgeous in there. The machines they had available for us to work on were really nice as well. They definitely weren't anything too fancy, I was working on a beginner Janome, but they were so much quieter than my Singer.


All Pendleton fabric is double sided and I used the side that was more white - the other side has a lot more blue. I debated for awhile between a plain lining or something patterned and ended up deciding on this scissor print. I liked the yellow color because of how it matched with the bag and I knew the scissor print would make me smile when I looked inside. I have two pockets in there made out of the lining fabric. I went with two instead of three because I wanted to be able to fit my phone, wallet, and keys inside easily.


I think my favorite bit of the bag is the leather handle/closure. I feel like it really pulls the whole thing together and makes it look like a store bought bag even though it is one of a kind! In other news I have a fabric for a pair of jeans cut out and a half finished dress on my sewing table. I've been so busy lately and I keep finding other projects to work on. Grrrr - but this is what I love about summer!

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Ponte Knit Alyssa Dress

Pattern: Alyssa Dress - Spit Up & Stilletos (formerly Sewloft)
Fabric:  Ponte Knit Fabric - Remnant from JoAnn's

I sewed this dress in a day way back when before Easter but never got around to posting it until now. This was a really straightforward pattern - just two pieces - and I sewed my standard size 8 grading out to a 10 in the hips. I should say this was also a free pattern! Spit Up & Stilletos used to be Sewloft Patterns but they decided to make the switch from women's patterns to children's patterns and as a result all of their old women's patterns are free pdf downloads. Needless to say I downloaded just about all of them and based off of how this dress turned out I think it was a pretty good idea.


Since I used a ponte knit this is a bit tighter/slimmer fitting and it's easy, depending on what I pair with it, to dress it up or down. I think it would be interesting to make this again in a knit fabric with more stretch because I'm pretty sure the fit would be more sundress and less bodycon.


All in all it's a nice addition to my summer wardrobe, I used up some fabric I had laying around, and I felt like a sewing champ after making it in two hours. In other news I've been working on my 'muslin' ginger jeans for the last two weeks and I'm pretty sure I'm going to be finishing them up today - so excited to be able to wear them and get started cutting into my fancy raw denim.

Monday, April 13, 2015

Navy Blue Eyelet Strip Granville Button Down

Pattern: Granville Shirt - Sewaholic Patterns
Fabric: Navy Blue Cotton Eyelet Stripe Shirting - Colorado Fabrics 

I was super  excited to take pictures this morning because I realized over the weekend that my old-school point and shoot digital camera had a timer option that would take two pictures in a row. After figuring out the perfect height to place the camera, what spot in the room I got the best light in, etc. the batteries died. Of course we're fresh out of AA batteries. Blah - why do Monday's always inevitably not go quite right. Anyways it was back to the laptop pictures, but I did manage to figure out how to turn the exposure up. So even though the pictures might be a little bit grainy you can see the fabric!


The Granville top is a new pattern release from Sewaholic Patterns. Way back when I first started this blog one of my first projects was the Minoru Jacket. I was excited when I saw this pattern release because I love the look of a fitted button down. I feel like this can transition from work wear to everyday wear depending on what you wear with it. Not to mention that this fabric makes me think of spring and summer. I love the texture and the tiny little eyelet hole strips (not sure what the technical term is sooooo I'm going with that).


I based my size off of the finished measurements included on the pattern envelope and ended up cutting a 8 through the top, a six through the waist, and I graded back out to an 8 through the waist. I like the way this ended up fitting through the bust and waist but I don't like how exaggerated the hip flare is. I know part of that is the design of the shirt which is supposed to be curvy and not straight but I think I would prefer and could just sew a straight 6 or keep the 8 in the bust. Alternatively I think I could just take a half inch off of each side on those two front pieces right at the seam. I also have some major swayback going on which I think I'm actually going to try and fix and make the adjustment on my pattern piece so that it will be fixed forever. I just really want this to be very fitted and streamlined that way if I ever wear it under anything I won't look lumpy.
 

I got the buttons from JoAnn's and they're LaMode Style 27673. I was originally going for a nautical vibe but I feel like it ended up looking more cowgirl. Ahhh well. I also spent a lot of time making sure my sleeve plackets were perfect only to end up sewing one sleeve on completely inside out - which somehow resulted in the placket not only being wrong side up but also on the top of my arm instead of on the bottom. I thought about picking it out and reattaching but for once in  my life I actually took the time to flat fell all of the seams of the shirt so I wouldn't have any raw edges exposed inside and that meant I'd have to unpick that seam too. Way too much work for something only I'll notice but also very frustrating to have happen after spending a ton of time being careful with every other part of the shirt. 


All in all once I get things in order with this pattern I feel like this will definitely be a wardrobe staple. Now in the meantime I will get some batteries so I can show off the dress I made a week ago and wore to Easter! Next up on the cutting table....jeans!

Monday, March 30, 2015

Spring/Summer 2015 Wardrobe Plans

     Now that the seasons are changing, even though it might snow on Friday, I've been thinking a lot about what I want to make for the spring/summer season. I'm trying to avoid buying any clothes unless it's something that I absolutely have to have, won't be able to find again, and is a reasonable price. When I was planning everything out I was looking for patterns that were nice for summer but dependent on the fabric they're made in could transition for work and for fun summer events. I always feel like I'm behind the curve during the seasons - on the first nice day everyone here busts out their cutest sundresses/shorts/tops/etc. While I want to be fashionable I don't want to buy 'fast fashion' or clothes that are cheaply made and will only last for the season even if they look good now. It's hard not to be tempted but I think I can avoid this dilemma based on what I choose to make.


To start - dresses. I love wearing dresses period. They make you look nice with minimal effort and they're usually pretty comfortable. Especially on a hot summer day when pants just feel sticky and a nice breeze is desired. Looking at these now I realize that the silhouette for each dress is pretty similar - fitted in the bodice with slight bell shaping in the skirt. It's definitely a silhouette that I love because it highlights my  body at it's smallest point which is my true waist. I also already own two dress patterns, the By Hand London Sabrina & the Deer and Doe Belladone, and I've blogged about them here and here. I haven't gotten a chance to make up the Sabrina dress in the button up version yet so that will probably get added to my list as well.


Next up we have shirts & blouses. I feel like a lot of the shirts/tank tops/blouses I own I've had for years and have kind of grown out of. But since I don't have anything better to replace them with I've held on to them. I wanted patterns that'd be versatile enough to wear a bunch of different ways and patterns that had fun design elements like the cutouts on the Datura blouse. I think the Granville Shirt is going to become a wardrobe staple mainly because of how fitted it is and I know I'll be able to wear this alone or layered underneath things. I'm also planning on making sleeveless versions that can be more summer appropriate as well as perfect for layering under sleeveless dresses.

Row 1: Ginger Jeans

I bought the ginger jeans pattern and kit way back before Christmas but just haven't gotten around to sewing them. I'm planning on making both the high waisted and regular versions and I have some otter wax that I'm planning on using to make a waxed version. I wanted to make the maritime shorts pattern last year but never got around to it. I feel like you can never have enough shorts in the summer and I think having a pattern that is a decent length will be nice; nowadays the stores are only selling those super short diaper/butt cheek hanging versions - blegh. I feel like these will look good in twill, denim, or other fun fabrics as well.


I had a ton of fun making a swimsuit last year and I've seen a number of people use this pattern which has quite a few options for you to mix and match. 

 Instead of linking to each fabric I'm going to link to my Pinterest Board that has all of the important info

This season instead of focusing on a certain color palette I decided to stick with fabrics that are mainly neutral - grey, navy, tan and a mix of graphic prints. I typically don't wear a lot of prints and I think that's because I don't have enough basics in my wardrobe to mix and match them with. I feel like all of these prints can be worn with a variety of things I own and mixed-matched for layering as well. Another thing I worry about with prints is that they'll go out of style. I've been seeing tons of tiny 90's flowered things everywhere lately so I'm trying to stay away from fad like fabrics and think long term.

If you've made it to the end of this post you deserve a prize - this was a long one. It's likely that I won't get around to sewing even half of these things. I know at some point I'll be traveling, camping, or just too busy laying in the hammock in the yard to do any sewing. Such is summer. I am trying to prioritize though so I can get the most out of this seasons sewing. I already am working on cutting out a Granville shirt which will be followed by the Ginger Jeans. From there I think I'll try and alternate between dresses and blouses and more Granville's followed hopefully by some shorts! Thanks for reading.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

By Hand London - Textured Sabrina Dress

I was trying to catch the light so you could see dress and the fabric texture

Fabric: textured ponte like knit - Colorado Fabrics
Pattern:  Sabrina Dress - By Hand London

How's it going everyone? I feel like it's that part of the winter where I'm anxious for spring but we're really no where close - do you guys ever feel like that? That all being said I figured making a dress would perk me up even though it hasn't really been dress weather here. Oh well...This is a pattern I've made twice before to make dresses as Christmas presents for my two roommates. I never posted about those dresses because I hadn't taken any pictures but the pattern is pretty easy to follow and sew up.



Both times prior to making this version I had used a non-stretch fabric which gives the dress a much more crisp appearance. This is a pretty sturdy knit and I actually like the drape and weight of how this turned out. Not to mention that because it's a cozy knit fabric this dress is super comfortable. The pattern calls for an invisible zipper up the back. I left that out due to the ease of the knit and it was a good decision because I didn't need it at all. I actually might need to take in the dress a bit on the sides but I'm going to wait until after I wash it just in case it shrinks a little bit.


I flat-felled all of the seams in order to get a nice clean finish on the inside but I kind of wish I hadn't. The reason for that is that the texture and weight of the fabric makes the seams look a little bulky at least to me. I feel like if I had just left the seams unfinished the inside of the dress might be a little ugly but the outside would look more smooth. This dress can definitely be dressed up or down depending on what I wear it with and all in all I think it's a great addition to my wardrobe. I love the texture of the fabric - I actually think it might be the same fabric Erin from sewbon used in her magena fringe jumper. Textured fabrics really stand out to me as different and they just add that extra detail that you don't see in a lot of clothes. That being said it was super hard to photograph but I tried my best.


It felt great to make a dress and I'm already planning my next one. Hopefully I'll have some chair updates to share with you all by the end of the week...i'll just say, it's looking great!

Thursday, February 5, 2015

Lingerie: Cloth Habit's Watson Bra & Bikini and Rosy Ladyshorts Patterns

 I still can't believe these turned out so great!
Pattern: Watson Bra & Bikini , Rosy Ladyshorts - Cloth Habit
Fabric/Notions: Blackbird Lingerie Kit 

If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook you these pictures might look familiar. I just couldn't wait to share my latest creations with the world because I'm so excited and proud of how they turned out. This is my first venture into underwear/lingerie sewing and I can see why so many bloggers have been making their own undergarments nonstop over the last couple of months. It's addicting, easy, and a really quick project. I wanted to take a break from the wing back chair project (updates on that here & here) and sew something that I could finish quickly and feel accomplished.


Enter the Watson Bra & Bikini Pattern by Cloth Habit, this pattern was just released a few months ago and people were giving it really good reviews. It's a nice entry into bra sewing as it doesn't involve underwire and it's only $15. The bra can be made in either the long line form pictured above or a shorter typical style bra. Over Christmas I ordered a lingerie kit from Blackbird Fabrics which was great. It included enough fabric to make the bra and two sets of underwear, it included all the notions, and it was only $35. The only problem I had is that shipping was kind of expensive since it was coming from Canada. Next time I would probably source my own notions and fabric, but as an alternative Grey's Fabric based out of Boston also has lingerie kits and a lot of theirs are very lacy & hard to resist.


The pattern was really easy to understand and the diagrams were clear. Some of my elastic stitching was a little uneven and I could probably do a better job of stretching the elastic next time. I think that's just something you get a feel for over time.

                                Watson Bikini                                                                 Rosy Ladyshorts

I made the bikini bottoms that were included in the Watson pattern and those were really straightforward and simple. Probably only took me about an hour to sew up completely. I had quite a bit of fabric left and so I decided to make another matching pair of underwear and so I downloaded the Rosy Ladyshorts Pattern which is a free pattern from Cloth Habit. I actually didn't have enough of the main pink fabric to cut out the pattern pieces completely so I hacked the pattern a bit in order to include a mesh panel using the leftover fabric from the bra band.
 

I actually think these are much cuter than the basic bikini underwear, but those could always be jazzed up with fancier elastic lace. I actually used a hem stretch lace for these which was a bad idea because it doesn't have nearly as much stretch as a stretch lace does. They fit fine, but they do dig in a little bit and I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be the case if the lace was different.


All in all I'm really pleased and I know I will be coming back to this pattern again. The fit of the bra is quite nice and comfortable and it provides really good support considering there is no underwire. I'm on a bit of a buying ban however so it may be awhile before I do purchase new supplies. Until then I'm lucky enough to have a stash of other fabrics and projects (like the wing back chair!) to keep me busy.

Monday, February 2, 2015

Reupholstery: Spring tying, padding, and covering the seat



I just thought I'd share a brief update of how my chair project is coming along. It's going good so far if you can't tell by the pictures above.

1. The original chair
2. The chair completely stripped and wiped down
3. The current progress on the chair. The seat padding has been added and the top fabric cut out but it is not yet attached. I have to sew together the fabric that goes along the deck and add piping before I can staple it down completely.
4. The first stage in reconstructing the chair was to apply new webbing to the bottom. This is what holds the springs.
5. The springs then got tied on to the webbing
6. Then the springs got tied down themselves in an 8-point tie. This helps to compress them into shape and make them act as a unit when you're sitting down.
7. I stained the legs and all parts underneath the chair that would be visible a nice rosewood color. The springs were covered with a piece of burlap.
8. Edge roll was added along the edge of the seat in order to help stabilize an area that gets a lot of wear and tear. Cotton batting was added on top of the burlap for padding and to smooth out an bumps from the springs.
9. The foam for the seat was cut out and glued onto another piece of burlap. This piece of burlap then got stapled down to the chair effectively holding the foam seat in place.
10. Maurice the cat thinks that it's good as is.
11. A layer of Dacron got glued on top and around the deck to add more padding.
12. The seat fabric has been cut out and checked for fit.

Even thought I haven't had much time during the week to work on this it's actually coming along quite nicely. I'm hoping to finish it up in the coming week so check back soon!

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Kelly Skirt


Pattern: Kelly Skirt - Megan Nielsen
Fabric:  Plaiditudes Collection - Brush Cotton Herringbone Brown & Black - JoAnn Fabrics (they no longer have this color)

I'd been wanting to make more skirts and dresses that had a 'fall/winter' feel to them so when I saw this heavier herringbone fabric I knew that it was destined to be a skirt. This was a fairly straightforward sew, and one of my favorite parts is that it has lined pockets! I'm not sure why it is but I love dresses and skirts that have pockets on them. In addition to the pockets the skirt buttons up the front and has pleats in both the front and the back. In hindsight I wish I had chosen lighter buttons for the center front so that they'd stand out a bit more. My buttonhole foot was working this time and so getting those button holes done was a breeze.

I was having a horrible time with lighting when I tried to take these pictures so they look a little washed out

I lined the pockets with this malachite cotton silk I had leftover from this tote bag project. Unfortunately I only had a few scraps left otherwise I think I would've lined the entire skirt. The pattern doesn't call for a lining, or include a pattern for one; however, you'd just need a rectangle, but having one would make it a little heavier for colder days. I ended up hemming it about 4 inches more than the pattern called for. I don't think I'd hem it that short again, probably just 2 inches next time, but the original hemline wasn't flattering as it was hitting mid knee. I thought about unpicking the hem and making it a little longer since I realized it  looked pretty short once I put it on, but then I decided I'd most likely be wearing this with tights or leggings this winter and decided to leave it. Interestingly it is finger length (did you guys have that rule in school about shorts/skirts/dresses needing to be finger length too?) but the bell shape because of the pleats makes it look shorter than it really is.


I'm not sure how big of a fan I am of the pleats on the back, from the side at least I feel like it adds to my back side but not in the most pleasant way. I interfaced the waistband and next time would also interface the center front placket in order to avoid stretching with the buttonholes. The only problem I had was that my waistband ended up really tight, so much that it was gaping and I had to sew a snap closure underneath the top button. I'm pretty sure I cut my pattern pieces out correctly, however when you sew on the waistband you leave some overhang that gets trimmed off when you turn the pieces right side out. I think next time I'd leave the overhang and sacrifice the look of everything being lined up down the center. I'm okay with the waistband buttons being a little off center from the center placket. Especially if it means I can eat, move comfortably, or breath when wearing the skirt. I made another version of this for my roommate out of some scrap fabric she had and hers fits perfectly. I'll have to take some pictures of it because it's very different than my version: side zipper, faux button placket, scalloped hem, faux pockets! As always, thanks for reading.

Monday, October 13, 2014

Scoop Neck High Back Long Sleeve Golden Nettie Bodysuit


Fabric: Mustard Yellow Solid Cotton Spandex Knit Fabric - Girl Charlee

If you're thinking another Nettie Bodysuit? The answer is an unapologetic yes! I'm loving this pattern for fall, mainly because wearing super stretchy knit fabric is really comfortable, but also because of how warm and cozy these bodysuits are. When the pattern came out earlier in the summer the thought of wearing a skin tight bodysuit in the hot sun wasn't really appealing to me. Now that the weather has cooled down though these things are great! This was a super quick sew considering that this was my second time working with the pattern, I'd previously made a three quarter length sleeve, high neck, low back version. It took about 3 hours from cutting the fabric to finish, enough time to finish House of Cards and start watching Bates Motel - which has a nice eerie feel to it, perfect for October.


This fabric had a lot of stretch to it similar to the fabric I used for my last Nettie. I wanted to avoid wrinkles around the midsection due to the fabric being too loose so I sewed an 8 through the bust, graded down to a 6 in the waist, and then went out to a 12 through the hips. There are no wrinkles this time and it doesn't feel too tight. I think I could get away with a 10 in the hips. The 12 fits nicely over my bottom, but it's not necessarily snug which isn't an issue just something I might tweak in the future. 



Last time I also had some problems with stretching under the armscye, but the high back seems to have rectified that and I didn't need to make any adjustments throughout the shoulder. Overall I really like the way the scoop neck fits and I like that it's not too low. I had considered getting some other fabric or stretch lace to make a contrasting binding around the neckline, but decided to just go the straightforward route this time. I have a fancy schmancy Nettie dress planned that I think I'm going to incorporate lace into.


Can we talk about how fun this skirt is by the way? Have a great week you guys!